Turkey’s Mysterious South East
Turkey is a huge country, and whenever people think of it, they focus on beach resorts, and the huge city of Istanbul. Not that many people understand that Istanbul isn’t the capital of Turkey at all, although it is the largest city; the capital is actually Ankara, located in the centre of the country. Away from these well known areas, you will find a much more authentic and traditional way of life, and it doesn’t get more authentic than when you head in a south-eastern direction.
We should mention that south-eastern Turkey is somewhat off the beaten tourist track. You won’t find many tourists in this part of the country, and that is because it simply isn’t geared up for tourism, and it is quite far away. We do also have to address the fact that this part of the country does have its troubles, and for that reason it isn’t advisable to wander around on your own, especially if you are a female. Despite that, if you visit in the right way, and you have a Turkish guide with you, preferably male, then you can enjoy this mystical and very traditional land.
Turkey’s south-eastern region is mainly Kurdish in population, and some of the trouble in this region comes from the ongoing battle for recognition. Diyarbakir, the region’s biggest city is considered as the capital Kurdish city, and other large city in the region include the wonderfully named Batman, Siirt, Mardin, and Van. Lake Van is one of the biggest lakes you will ever set your eyes on, and the scenery around this part of the country is stunning to say the least.
The question you’re probably asking is, is it safe?
Yes and no; as we mentioned, it depends how you visit.
If you see a flashpoint of trouble, e.g. a riot, a fight, or a large gathering of people, avoid it and walk away. Do not get involved in any political conversations, and instead, keep everything neutral. Be careful how you dress too, as if you dress in a non-modest way, you are likely to attract the wrong kind of attention. It isn’t that this part of the country is under-developed, it is just that it is not anywhere near as westernised as the tourist resorts and the large cities. You will find that women don’t tend to go out much, and if they do, it is with a male relative, or with their friends to a nearby coffee shop. Men on the other hand will be seen talking, drinking cay, and playing board games in many tea gardens dotted around towns and cities.
The other thing you will notice is that the Internet connection in this part of the country is patchy at best. You will see many Internet cafes dotted around, and this is where you will find young boys playing PlayStation games, and youngsters checking their Facebook profiles.
We are not intending to paint the south eastern region as a poor area, but you will certainly see a little poverty from place to place. What is very different about the south east too, is the dramatic scenery.
From snow to extremely hot temperatures, huge lakes to massive mountains, deserts to ancient ruins, you’ll find it all in this region. Of course, the south-eastern region also borders Iraq and Syria. Travelling close to the border is not a good idea, and it is not recommended, especially for tourists. The area is large enough to not go anywhere near the border however, where there are army and police patrols taking place on a constant basis.
This part of the country is home to some of the oldest settlements in the entire region, and the city walls of Diyarbakir are considered to be ancient. The city of Gaziantep is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on the planet, and the region of Sanliurfa, or Urfa for short, is steeped in history. Of course, this region is also famous for its food, and be sure to try Urfa kebab, or lahmacun from this region – delicious! The food around here is made from scratch, and usually from villages, where cheese is made from their own cows, and jam is made from fruit picked from the trees. Basically, you don’t get fresher than this.
Provided you visit the south east correctly, and you are careful with where you go and what you wear, this is a region that will be more than enriching, and you will certainly see Turkey through a totally different set of eyes.
